Of the many good things they love about this country, foreign tourists always mention our food as the top three or five of their list, next only to our warm people and our white-sand beaches.
Whether these are food sold on the streets, made at home in the simplest to the most sophisticated kitchens, all the way to gourmet offerings of Michelin-cited establishments, they occupy a special place in our visitors’ hearts and palates.
One chef of long-standing fame and outstanding reputation is Reggie Aspiras, whose recipes are compiled in a number of best-selling cookbooks.
A dear friend of mine, along with the other Aspiras girls, Aida Cristy and Babot, daughters of the late popular couple, Secretary of Tourism Sunshine Joe and his Marian devotee better-half Amparing, a staunch Cabinet lady of the Marcos years circa 1960-1980s, Reggie has been the subject of my features through the years. Being close to each other, we have collaborated on a number of projects highlighting her many accomplishments in the culinary arts.
Recently, Chef Reggie prepared and hosted a special Sunday lunch in the Aspiras La Vista home as her contribution to the first Manila Food and Wine Festival, which was founded by Kate Dychangco – Anzani, a passionate food aficionado and wife of famed Italian chef Marco Anzani.
According to Reggie, herself a prolific writer-columnist, the festival was “conceived to bring life to the food industry in Cebu after Covid, and it has been adopted by Manila, Ilocos and Davao.”
In partnership with the regional offices of the Department of Tourism, this series of regional events aims to establish the Philippines as the emerging premiere culinary destination in Asia. Hence, the event showcases traditional and regional cuisines, local chefs and restaurateurs.
“The festival is meant to highlight our food culture; as well as fuel the fire of innovation to elevate our food culture by establishing the Tatak Pinoy food stamping program,” Reggie shared.
The first cook in Metro Manila to showcase her culinary specialties in the festival, she came up with an interesting mix of festive dishes to which she added her personal touch, a garnishing here and an indigenous flavoring there, mostly original Ilocano since the Aspiras family comes from the north in La Union.
Reggie explained, “Filipino Done My Way, in Reggie’s Kitchen’ is the first of a series of events specially curated for the MFWF. ”
“Being a staunch believer in the possibilities of Philippine Cuisine, there was no other food to cook but our own, to which, of course, I added some touches. It was a very personal menu, as the dishes were created for a purpose that stem from my roots, a happy memory, which is to simply share the way I cook Pinoy food and how I like to eat.”
Taking after her father Sunshine Joe’s inimitable way of promoting the Philippines, which highlighted Philippine crafts, music and dances, Reggie gave her guests, led by Senator Loren Legarda and television personality Korina Sachez Roxas, along with DoT Undersecretary Verna Buensuceso and DoT Regional Director Jeff Ortega, a sense-surround spectacle featuring dancers who welcomed the guests right from the gate, rondalla music, kiping ornaments hovering over the individual tables, table settings of local handwoven fabrics and fresh tropical flowers. I was honored with a place in the main table, along with Reggie’s sister Aida. All the while, her other sister, Cristy, hopped from table to table to help entertain everyone.
Let’s hear it from Chef Reggie who gave us her annotation of the delicious dishes she served us.
“For appetizers, I had my rendition of Chicharon Bulaklak, large ruffled flower-like fat that are 250 grams each. To cut through the fat, I served the chicharon with seasoned vinegar and an assortment of achara: radish, corn, chilies and papaya.
“I also recreated the Kilawing Hipon with a trio of Mangoes. This was one of the dishes I presented during the Food and Wine Festival in Cebu, paying tribute to their famous mangoes. To the kinilaw I added the famous Cebu dried mangoes, some fresh mangoes and a pickled green mango relish to cap the kinilaw that sat on kaykay (cassava chips from Cebu) or fried fish skins.
“Being the Ilocana that I am, bagnet had to figure prominently in my spread, and it did — in the form of Sisig; drizzled with Sriracha Aioli and crowned with Arugula Ensalada.
“Salad was Fried Chipirones (Baby Squid) on a mixed bed of Pako Ferns and Chef Reggie’s hydroponically grown Salad Greens Mix. It was served with a vinaigrette made from Bugnay Balsamic Vinegar from Ilocos Norte that I turned to a creamy vinaigrette.
“Soup was presented in Coconut Shells, where buko juice, chicken, oyster mushrooms and aromatics were left to steam for hours before serving. It was a good way to refresh the palate, before the main course. It made a refreshing start to the meal.
“Badjao Lumpia is made of bangus tossed in blue pea-soaked vermicelli. It is presented with sweet garlic vinegar and vegetable confetti
“The Seafood Malabon is a spin-off, and my tribute to Aling Nene who, in my opinion, makes the best Pancit Malabon.
“Pistachio Kare-Kare had with Dried Fruit Bagoong was a dish that I put together for a cooking class that was designed to serve dishes that are new and exciting to Filipino diners here and abroad. And so was Salmon Wrapped in Pechay Leaves Served with Smoked Bacon Laing.
“There is no hiding my pride in being 100 percent GI, genuine Ilocana, that is. As such, my Kurobuta lechon was served stuffed with Ilocos Garlic, Ilocos Shallots and Karimbuwaya (a succulent endemic to the north with an innate tartness traditionally used to stuff lechon with). It was paired with seasoned Sukang Iloco inspired by the suka at Dawang’s — the favorite karinderya of President Bongbong (Marcos). The lechon was accompanied by pandan infused puso, as lechon is enjoyed in Cebu.
“Of course our Lechon must be served with Dinuguan. In my kitchen I call it Silky Dinardaraan – stirred for hours until the sauce is thick and glistening…just as mom did hers, La Union style- growing up. It is scooped with Okilas — huge pig skin chicharons — a delicacy in the north.
“For dessert, a warm cronut base held a freshly churned house-made Coconut Cream Ice Cream served with ube coulis, sweetened beans, jackfruit and bananas.
“It was a feast cooked from my heart. One that, happily for me and my family, everyone enjoyed.”