Once a year, go somewhere you have never been before,” said the Dalai Lama.
And so it was that on my birthday week, I found myself on the mystical island of Siquijor in the Visayas region. I did not have any grand expectations about Siquijor but I was completely blown away by it.
Discovered by Esteban Rodriguez and Juan Aguirre of the Legaspi Expedition in 1565, it was known to the Spanish conquistadors as Isla de Fuego or the “Island of Fire” for Siquijor was literally lit by fireflies at night swarming the branches of its molave trees.
San Isidro Labrador Church in Lazi, Siquijor.
With a land area of 32,700 hectares and a coastline 102 kilometers (63 mi) long, Siquijor is the third smallest province of the Philippines, both in terms of population as well as land area (after Camiguin and Batanes). White sandy beaches cover the 102 kilometers of shoreline surrounding the island while mangroves and marine sanctuaries dot the island, providing a safe haven for its pristine marine life.
Siquijor is known throughout the country for its unique healing practices. In fact, there are signs all over that call Siquijor, the healing island. Its centuries-old tradition of concocting local potions is still being practiced and used as alternative medicine.
All six municipalities are connected by asphalt and concrete roads. The major means of transportation in the province are multi-cabs, tricycles, and motorcycles (habal-habal). Tourist vans are also available in the island to ferry guests and tourists to the different attractions. I was impressed by the roads on the island. Half of them have reflectors to guide the drivers when dusk falls. We went around the island in a rented van, and our driver, Jun was super friendly and knowledgeable. It was our luck that he also took excellent photographs!
Siquijor is small that you can drive through the length of the island in about an hour and a half without stopping.
OF UNSPLASH /ildi bibo
SIQUIJOR is an island known for its unique healing practices.
But what is a vacation if you don’t stop and visit a province’s famous tourist spots? For us, it was the San Isidro Labrador Church in the town of Lazi.
Opposite the San Isidro Labrador Church, flanked by centuries-old acacia trees, is the oldest Catholic convent in the Philippines, a magnificent timber and stone villa, creaky with age and eerily serene. Upstairs is the small Siquijor Heritage Museum, with historical photographs and a few old santos. Downstairs is a working Catholic grade school. The convent is said to be the largest and oldest one in the Philippines. It has kept its original wooden flooring that dates back to the late 1800s. There are beautiful stained glass windows and an impressive cement staircase.
From the convent, we drove to see a tremendous balete tree (banyan tree), estimated to be 400 years old and believed by some to be enchanted. In front of the tree is a spring-fed pool filled with flesh-nibbling fish — dangle your feet in for a free ‘fish spa’. It was both fun and a ticklish experience.
Accommodations in Siquijor range from homestays to the beautiful and luxurious Coco Grove Nature Resort in the municipality of San Juan. I had heard many nice things about Coco Grove but remained guarded. Whatever reservations I had were left at the entrance of the resort.
MARVEL the pristine beauty of the beaches of Siquijor.
We stayed in a beautiful ocean villa that faced the sea. Accommodations are comparable to some of our country’s best resorts but at prices that won’t break the bank. The food was excellent, as was the service — always pleasant, always with a smile. The people of Siquijor reminded me so much of the people of Bohol and Dumaguete, all gentle and ready to help and serve.
The resort is lovely, peaceful, and relaxing. The beach is never crowded even if they had a lot of guests. For me, the crown jewel of Coco Grove is its Temple Spa. Luxurious in design and detail, it reminded me of the spas in Bali, and Ubud in Indonesia. I chose to receive a Hilot massage (in a province known for healing arts, what better treatment) and the young lady therapist who worked on me was so good that I walked out of the spa completely unknotted. Almost all of the aches and pains I walked into the spa with, disappeared.
Some provinces you visit, and it’s a one and done thing. Siquijor, Negros Oriental, Cebu, Bohol, and Davao are places I would return to again and again. Our country is so beautiful. In spite of its many problems, the older I get, the more I have learned to appreciate the splendor and beauty of our islands.